A trip to Meghalaya remains incomplete if you’ve not crossed any of the spectacular root bridges ‘grown’ at different parts of this beautiful north-eastern state of India! In fact, while planning the Meghalaya trip, that’s the first thing that went to my list of places to visit in Cherrapunji. And when it comes to living root bridges, what’s better than the most sought-after trekking experience, the Double Decker Root Bridge trek near Cherrapunji (Sohra)! Before diving into the trekking details, let me tell you something about the history of these root bridges.
History of the living root bridges
The root bridges, as the name suggests, are made of aerial roots of rubber trees; pulled, twisted and channeled through hollowed betel nut trunks. These were invented and crafted by the local Khasi people hundreds of years ago. The basic idea about these man-made root bridges was to use them as an alternative to wooden bridges which are typically prone to decay, thanks to the massive rainfall the state receives throughout the year.
These are called ‘living’ root bridges as some of these roots are still growing. The root bridges usually take around 10-15 years to become strong and steady before these can used for crossing streams and rivers. The bridges get stronger and stronger with time as they grow. A typical root bridge has the capacity of carrying 40-50 people at a time. It is believed that many of the root bridges in Meghalaya are more than 500-600 years old!
What’s so special about the Double Decker Root Bridge
The Double Decker root bridge located in the tiny Nongriat village near Cherrapunji in the East Khasi Hills is one of its kind and it is the most famous of all the root bridges in Meghalaya. It gained a lot of popularity among travellers and outdoor enthusiasts in the last few decades. It’s quite unique among the root bridges as this 20-meter long bridge is probably the only bridge in the region with two decks.
But what makes it even more special is the amount of determination and courage and physical fitness one requires to have to reach there. It has 3500+ stairs and descends 2,400 feet. The trek is, no doubt, challenging, long and tiring but it’s totally worth it and I can guarantee that the experience of the trek and the beauty of the surroundings is so magical that it will definitely stay in your memory forever.
Do you really need to be fit for the trek?
I think, before even discussing about how to go to Double Decker Root Bridge and sharing other details, you may need to know if you’re fit enough to do this trek. I would say, yes, you need to be fit for this trek. However, it doesn’t mean that you have to be super athletic and fit. The most difficult part of the trek is the stretch where there are extremely steep steps. Climbing these steps while coming back to the starting point will be a good test of your stamina and strength.
But if you do not rush and take frequent breaks during the trek, it is not going to be that difficult. The descent is also quite tricky as it causes a lot of strain on the knees and calf muscles due to the steep stairs. Take it slow and you can do it successfully. However, I would suggest people over 60 and those with knee and joint problems to consider not going for this trek. Meghalaya has many such living root bridges which are also beautiful and easier to access. I went for this trip to Meghalaya with my elderly parents and I did not risk taking them to this trek. I went solo and my parents spent the day visiting other beautiful attractions near Cherrapunji.
How to reach Double Decker Root Bridge
The Double Decker Root Bridge is located in a small village named Nongriat in the East Khasi Hills and there is no motorable road to reach there. To reach Nongriat, you have to first reach Tyrna village which is around 12 kms from Cherrapunji and it takes around 30 minutes by car.
From Tyrna, starts the steep descent towards Nongriat village into the deep jungle through 3500 steps covering 3 kms. If you are staying in Cherrapunji, you can book a local taxi to reach Tyrna. But be reminded that if you are not planning to stay at Nongriat village for the night after the trek, you may have to book the taxi for both ways (Cherrapunji – Tyrna – Cherrapunji) as you wouldn’t find many taxis from Tyrna to take you back to Cherrapunji and you may end up getting stuck in the dark after the strenuous trek.
I had my cab booked for the entire trip and our driver Mr. Sushil Biswa waited for me at Tyrna all the while I was doing the trek. On a different note, Mr. Sushil is an extremely efficient, experienced, professional and responsible driver who made the journey with my family really smooth and enjoyable. You can contact him on +91-7640930848/ +91-9856888690.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Cherrapunji is between October and February as the weather remains extremely pleasant during these months and the trek to Double Decker Root Bridge becomes a bit easier if you do not have to struggle with the summer heat. Early summer between March and May is also a good time to visit. Try to avoid the monsoon season, July to September, as the region gets heavy rainfall during these months. We travelled to Meghalaya in the first week of May. The weather was clear on the day I trekked to Double Decker Root Bridge. It was pleasant in the morning when I started the trek and was slightly hot towards the afternoon while climbing back to Tyrna.
What time to start the trek
It is always better to start the trek early if you are not going to stay overnight at Nongriat. Even if you do not take enough rest in between the trek, it can easily take up to 4-5 hours or sometimes even more if you spend some time relaxing near the root bridge. I started at 9 in the morning and came back by 2:30 in the afternoon. Try to come back to Tyrna by 4 in the evening as it gets dark really soon. So, start early, enjoy the walk without rush, soak in the beauty of the trail and relax for some good amount of time after reaching the root bridge at Nongriat, and you can easily come back before it gets dark. If you plan to trek to Rainbow Falls, which takes another 1.5 hours, you should ideally start the trek at 7 in the morning.
About the trek
Once you reach the starting point of the trek at Tyrna, you’ll find many local young people to help you as guides during the trek. Though the trekking route is very wall-marked, you can still hire one as your guide if you wish. Even if you do not hire a guide, that’s okay. I took a young man in his twenties as my guide who charged 500 INR for the trek. Also, buy one bamboo stick right before you start as it really helps while climbing back up.
The entire three-kilometre trek can be divided into three parts:
1. The Steep Descent Till Nongthymmai Village:
This is the trickiest part of the trek. As I started climbing down the stairs, I found the steps becoming steeper and steeper. You may think it’s a good idea to cover the descent faster as walking down won’t make you feel tired. But I would suggest not to take this part lightly. Climbing down the steep stairs fast can put a lot of pressure on your knees. It can cause some serious injury as well. At some parts, it is so steep that it makes you feel that you are on a vertical descent. I took frequent breaks to give my legs a little rest.
After 45 minutes of trekking down, I reached Nongthymmai village. One of the longest living root bridge, Rittymen, is located here. I climbed the root bridge which is grown over a beautiful stream running below.
I walked to the other side of the bridge to took a closer look at the marvellous bio-engineering work and the moss-covered twisted roots which served the Khasi people for centuries .
I spent some time there and took a few shots of the bridge and the surroundings.
2. Journey Through Dense Vegetation And Crossing The Steel Bridges:
I resumed my journey towards Nongriat and from here the descent was much simpler. In this part of the trek, you’ll see a wide variety of vegetation. You’ll find betel nut trees, jackfruits, pineapples, bayleaf, bamboo groves, different species of herbs, ferns and varieties of wild flowers.
And yes, you’ll also find a lot of butterflies in this part of the trek.
There was an absolute sense of calmness all around. By then, I was enjoying each and every step of the hike. After walking for another 45 minutes, I reached to a stream which was to be crossed by walking on an extremely narrow hanging steel wire bridge.
With cautious steps, I crossed the hanging bridge (which was literally hanging with every movement) admiring the spectacular view of the beautiful greenish blue river running below.
After crossing this bridge, I came across another hanging wire bridge but this was a bit wider than the previous one.
3. The Final Stretch To Double Decker Bridge:
Just after crossing the second wire bridge, there came a few steps going upward. This was the final part of the trek and as I climbed up the stairs, I got some sense of how difficult the return hike uphill was going to be.
I was feeling a little exhausted but the excitement to see the wonder bridge kept me going and I didn’t even stop for a single time during the final stretch. Soon, I came across a small root bridge which marked the entrance to the Nongriat village.
After few more minutes of walking, I reached to the entry point of the bridge. There is a small ticket counter from where I got the entry tickets.
With all excitement, I walked through the gate and there it was, the Double Decker Root Bridge standing tall with all its beauty hanging over a beautiful stream flowing down below!
After reaching Double Decker Root Bridge
Seeing such a stunning architectural wonder, I could not hold my excitement. I jumped onto the bottom tier of the bridge first and slowly walked to the other side. The calm river and a small waterfall at a distance added to the beauty of the surrounding.
The feeling of experiencing such a wonderful creative union of human and nature literally gave me goosebumps. All my exhaustion after this two-hour long trek was totally gone! Then I made my way to the upper deck of the bridge. Each and every step on the bridge felt magical. Fortunately, the place was not at all crowded that time and I could spend some time standing in the middle of the bridge touching and admiring the thick moss-covered roots which carried so much of history across ages.
Next I sat down by the pool for some time and took a few shots of the bridge from different angles. The pool was quite safe for swimming and I had already planned to take a plunge on the water.
As planned, I jumped into the icy cold water and swam near the waterfall. It felt quite amazing to rejuvenate in the lap of nature and wash away all the exhaustion and worries of life for a moment.
After taking the swim, I sat on a rock by the pool with my feet dipped in the water and I let the tiny fish give me some relaxing natural foot spa for free!
Being surrounded by such a fairy-tale natural setting, I almost forgot that I was hungry. There was a small shop nearby from where I ordered a bowl of Maggi.
I looked at my watch and it was already 12:30 and it was time to climb back up.
The return trek experience
The climb back up from Nongriat to Tyrna was never easy. The first hour of the trek was still okay but as soon as I reached the steeper steps, it became more and more challenging. The calf muscles were seriously hurting and I was literally getting out of breath gasping for air.
I took a few breaks on the journey up and was taking a few sips of water every 15-20 mins to stay hydrated. I kept climbing up the never-ending stairs and also enjoyed the beauty of the green hills playing hide and seek with the clouds.
On the way back, I stopped at a stall to eat some fresh pineapples to give myself an extra dose of energy.
After another hour of strenuous hiking, I finally reached Tyrna village. I thanked my guide for giving me the company during the entire trek.
As soon as I reached the starting point, I saw Mr. Sushil waiting for me with all smiles. He asked “Kaisa tha?” (“How was it?”). The exhausted me uttered just one word which summed it up all, “Swarg“(“Heaven”)!
Staying options at Nongriat village
There are not many staying options in the village. There are very few home-stays at Nongriat which provide basic accommodation and food. But I think it would not be a bad idea to stay for a night in the village, interact with the local Khasi people and soak in the calmness of the forest. The Serene Homestay is believed to be the best staying option at Nongriat.
Some Useful Tips:
- Take it slow. Start as early as possible and take a leisurely walk both downhill and uphill. Try to climb back to Tyrna by 4 PM as it gets dark soon.
- Keep your backpacks light as the Double Decker Root Bridge trek involves a lot of climbing.
- Carry a bottle of water, umbrella or raincoat and change of clothes if you are going to swim in the pool.
- Wear comfortable clothes as it can get really sweaty during the climb. Wear a cap or a hat and proper trekking shoes.
- If you are coming from Cherrapunji, reach Tyrna with your own transport or have a taxi booked for the entire trip from Cherrapunji to Tyrna and then back to Cherrapunji.
- Buy the bamboo sticks right at the beginning of the trek. It really helps while climbing back up.
- If you are planning to do the Double Decker Root Bridge trek with aged people or with kids, it will be best to stay back at Nongriat village for the night instead of returning the same day.
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